The cost of a new stator can be hundreds of dollars. Without a good stator, your engine will run poorly or not at all. This solution completely bypasses the stator by using a 12 volt battery to power the ignition system. It will work on all contact breaker point engines old styleand some electronic controlled ignition newer style ones.
The guide is for contact breaker systems. Note that as written this system will bypass the CDI portion of your ignition system if present and replace it with a more traditional one. I devised this system when the stator on my Honda XR got so weak that it couldn't power the spark plug, preventing the engine from running. While a stator is dying, it can produce a weak spark, causing the engine to miss or run poorly. Symptoms are often worsened as the engine warms up.
Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. Ignition coil: This needs to be a fairly heavy duty coil. They both literally blew up from the heat. I guess they're not designed for a continuous 12 volts? I found that the older canister type ignition coil designed for cars work for this application and don't get hot or blow up.
This is the lead acid type used for car batteries.
They sell small ones for use in dirt bike starters, security system back up power supplies, etc. Capacitor: Any capacitor intended for ignition systems will work. I don't know the technical specification. I used the one that was one that was part of the original ignition system on my dirt bike. Resistor: This is to protect the ignition coil from receiving too much power. Use a 2 ohm resistor rated in the neighborhood of watts of power. On Off Switch: You can use the one that came with your engine as long as it's not the kind you have to hold down.
Flywheel Removal Tool: They sell a universal one for most small engines on various websites. I would cut sections off a spool to the required length, then sand the insulation off the ends and attach alligator clips. The way you go about wiring is a personal preference, so if you want to buy ready to use wires with alligator clips, or even solder all connections without clips that's your call.
While not required, it is helpful to have for troubleshooting and checking to make sure everything is wired properly. These are cheap and a good tool to have around the house. The wiring of the system is somewhat flexible.
Intermittent spark - 06 CRF 450R
The series order of the pieces doesn't matter, and can be done however is easiest for the space available on your particular machine. I recommend fastening all the components to the machine first, then wiring them together after in the most convenient way. The only piece that has to be done according to the diagram is the wiring between the ignition coil and capacitor: The capacitor MUST be wired between the two terminals of the ignition coil.
Please forgive the sloppy diagram; I made in paint. I wanted to use a platform that allowed me to use pictorial symbols rather than conventional electronic schematics which not everyone is familiar with. Notes: -The two primary terminals on the ignition coil are shared by multiple components, and therefore will have two wires coming out of each. This is where the spark plug wire will connect. For electronics people, it's the positive terminal of the secondary coil.
The negative terminal for the secondary coil is shared with the negative terminal for the primary coil. As evident from the diagram, further explanation is needed to explain how to wire the "engine" in series with everything else.
The only reason the wiring passes through the engine is to reach the contact breaker system.View Full Version : er no spark when using elec. Magnets on the flywheel move the available electrons of the excitor winding of the stator and charges the capacitor in the CDI box.
When the reluctor on the flywheel moves by the pulser coil it sends electricity to the CDI box and the zener diode inside closes a path to ground for the capacitor, allowing the capacitor to send its power to the ignition coil primary side. Mutual induction steps up the voltage to around 50, volts and powers the spark plug. I would try a new CDI, or borrow one from a friend if you can, to see if that is the problem.
Originally posted by mhewitt new battery, new starter, new solenoid, new plug, motor turns over plenty fast, doesnt get spark at the plug when using the starter. I hate to say this but make sure its not, you might have to take the shock to make sure! Or you could just take the spark plug out of the cylinder head, put it in the spark plug cap, and put the electrode on a good ground while cranking the engine to see if it has spark.
If it starts when you roll start it though it has spark. I would dynamically test the low rpm exiter winding if I were you though. If it doesnt output the minimum voltage check it for an open or insulation breakdown. That could cause an intermittant spark problem like you have.
Originally posted by HondaRaceReady Or you could just take the spark plug out of the cylinder head, put it in the spark plug cap, and put the electrode on a good ground while cranking the engine to see if it has spark. Originally posted by moyerr where is that?
I had a new battery and it was on the battery charger set to 12v 15amp, even tried it on amp engine start once but still didn't start, I wouldn't think the stator was bad considering once u pull start it will run fine but I really don't know.
I just need to know what to buy to get it back runnin. Sounds like a wiring issue to me. Also, jumping fourwheelers with that many amps will fry the recitifier. Originally posted by fastredrider44 Sounds like a wiring issue to me.
I was always under the impression that booster chargers were acting like a larger cranking amps per hour, basically like putting a big battery on it? As far as I can tell from previous experiences, jumping a fourwheeler from a car battery or something won't hurt the battery, but it will mess the recitifier up and the fourwheeler won't charge the battery correctly. I don't think a jump box can put that much out though. No abnormal noises just sounds like a starter, does anyone have a pic of what a r stator should look like?
Couldn't find any on google. You won't be able to look at a stator and know if it's good or not. If it will roll start but not fire from the button, I don't think it is the stator.
Reason I was asking was because I already had it out and two of the coils on the stator r bigger than the rest and they r a dark brown color didn't know if it was normal or if that was a sign of failure. Originally posted by mhewitt Reason I was asking was because I already had it out and two of the coils on the stator r bigger than the rest and they r a dark brown color didn't know if it was normal or if that was a sign of failure, NORMAL!!!!
Just asking have you checked your valves and the decompresion setting. But could pull start or replace stock cdi and start and warm up then change cdi back. I know not exactly same problem but find someone that will let you swap out cdi. I don't think its cdi cause I wasn't getting voltage from the stator to the cdi so it can't b the issue. Originally posted by mhewitt I don't think its cdi cause I wasn't getting voltage from the stator to the cdi so it can't b the issue.
Would a slipping starter clutch cause it not to spark? I'd rob someone's stator you know to be good and swap them out and see what gives. Good point. Out of curiosity though, doesn't a starter clutch on it's way out usually make some racket?
Originally posted by fastredrider44 Good point. It doesn't make any racket from my experiences.Remember Me? Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last Jump to page: Results 1 to 10 of Im trying to figure out a problem for my brothers quad, i live hours away from him so its hard to tell. Ok, so here it goes. He has a trxer, he was having some carb issues after installing a new exhaust, so he took the carb out and re-jetted the carb with the provided jets that came with the exhaust.
After doing some reading my thinking is the CTPS closed throttle position sensor.
2006 CRF 450R Sputtering Mid-High RPM - wtf!?!?
This may not be true, but i read that the CTPS can ground out the ignition if some things are not set right on the carb? If that is true then how do i go about reseting it? I do not have a service manual for that bike and have never messed with the tps so please help if you can!! I had him check his connections as well, he said all connections were well connected. I have gone through everything and read this post about the TPS.
I connected the tps wires together and it didnt seem to help. Thanks DnB for the input, i cant mess with it till i get home tomoro so ill give that a try and see if thats the problem. And i couldnt see how the tps being the problem if your able to start it by pushing the start button a bunch of times, sounds more like a switch problem, but the only way to back that thought is to test the switch. You might check your connections and make sure theres no dirty or loose connections.
Attached Images pink wire tors 1 explain. Ok so what is the green wire mod for?
Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last Jump to page:. All times are GMT The time now is AM. All rights reserved. ATV Riders.Went out and finally managed to get my exhaust fitted to my downpipes using a gasket I made from a can of Macaroni Cheese Anyway, tried to start my bike after it and it wouldn't start, it was turning over but just wouldn't fire up, then it sounded like it was backfiring Battery got drained so I just fully charged it and same is happening - turning over but not firing up!How to rule out a Spark Plug as your problem
I thought maybe I had flooded it with petrol, how long does this usually take to clear if this is the case? I look at my fuel gauge more as a progress bar than a fuel gauge. Are you teaching it how to be a piston? Take the spark plug out and turn the engine over for a second, that will unflood it. Clean the plug and put it back in and it should work fine. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs.
Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando. Turning the fuel tap off will stop the fuel going to the carb. The float bowl on the carb will be full however and will contain enough fuel to run the engine at tickover for a minute or so. Turning the engine over with the starter for a minute or so may empty the float bowl but it might cost you a new starter motor. Most probably it's fouled the plug from not running right and the fucked plug isn't igniting the stupidly rich mixture.
Why don't you navigate yourself to the back of the line with your feet and stand there with your shit.
Honda TRX450ER Owner's Manual
BillingTZR wrote: when my nc23 did something very similar i left the bike with the fuel off, and charged the battery over night. I find giving it a minute to settle and then giving it a good bump start normally works for me. Good point, in this situation I would normally use the massive hill next to my house to "bump" start it over about a quater of a mile of downhill. Went out to see what it was like today and it's doing the same.
My brother tried to bump start it for me but it didn't go, how much speed do you need to bump it anyway? Maybe going too slow?
StevenF wrote:. Weak battery and blocked air filter will cause poor starting or lack of.Sorry for tossing it in here but I know this gets more traffic than the race shop, I barely go there myself. Anywhoooo I swamped my CRF R a while back and ripped it apart to dry it out and inspect stuff. Now the spark is all good but it is sputtering in the mid-high range.
It sounds a bit like its bouncing off the rev-limiter. Neighbours love me… Any thoughts dudes? Completely drained the fuel tank? Dried out? Checked the head pipe is tight? Junction between the pipe and silencer?
Replaced the jets? Those pilot jets get clogged easy. Sounds like a lean condition to me. Also, change the spark plug to eliminate possibly a bad plug first When the plug gap gets to great the ignition has to jump a bigger distance and can mimic your symptoms. Make sure the coil to plug cap is good. And your grounds are good. Next,buy a digital ohm meter and test your ignition system.
Cheers, Pat. The vent tubes on the carb are not blocked What color is the plug after one or 2 of these hood rips? Or still looks new? You are sure the new plug wire is screwed into the coil and plug cap good. The plug condition,color will tell me the most info here. Since you had the head off you are sure that the cam is not off a tooth. It will clear the valves if off one tooth in one direction but not the other. Remove the inspection plug on the crank cover and remove rocker cover.
Line up hash marks on cam with top of head,look at crank marks,the 3 of them will be in line if correct.The bike was jerky, unpredictable and quirky. He wanted a Baja pre-runner, and the Honda seemed like it would fill the prescription. But when they rode it for the first time, it was pretty much the opposite of what they wanted. The race was a few months away, and there was a lot of work to do. Leonard Duncan is a very familiar figure in the ATV racing world.
Duncan Racing has been instrumental not only in building quads for racing in Mexico and the U. That bike was somewhat infamous in the dirt bike world.
The CRFR was the last carbureted motocross bike from Honda, and it was incredibly good in almost every way. Unfortunately, the replacement CRFR was completely different, starting with fuel injection and extending to overall feel and handling. On the flip side, it was light and handled like a great big Between and now, Honda worked on all the complaints, but there is still a large number of models floating around. The one that Duncan found had suspension work but not much else.
Before any of those items could be addressed, it had to be made off-road-ready. When you take a bike designed for lap sprints and head to Baja for days and days of riding, you have to address range, comfort and protection. The range part is easy. IMS makes a 2. It bolts on quickly and accepts the stock mounting location for the fuel pump, which is inside the tank.
On the comfort subject, the bike got a set of Flexx bars, which absorb small hits with elastomer cushions. Duncan knew all about these from the ATV world, where they are ubiquitous. The Factory Connection suspension was set up soft, specifically for off-road, and they got a set of SealSavers.
Right from the start, Duncan was confident that he could fix the Honda. The sorest sore point seemed to be fuel injection, and he knew exactly how to handle that from his work in the ATV world. It gives the end user limited access to ignition timing and very little guidance as to what settings might be best for you. There are four clickers on the black box, which is actually yellow.
Three of them adjust different ranges of fuel mixture according to throttle opening, just like the circuits of an old-fashion carburetor. The fourth lets you choose from 10 different spark-advance maps. Vortex gives you a best-guess setting for ignition position number one.
The other settings are for different conditions, like mud, hard-packed dirt and so on. Setting number nine duplicates the stock ignition but gives you a higher rev ceiling. Setting 10 is open for your own program.
A handlebar switch lets you test any preselected curve on the fly and compare it to setting number one. As for the rest of the motor, very little was changed. The stock cam, piston and head are just fine. Only the clutch needs attention.
Duncan installed a Hinson six-spring clutch and hooked it up to a Works Connection lever and perch. It might have been purchased as a pre-runner, but it seemed more like a racer. First of all, it was fast. In the default setting, the bike felt like it had hardware-based engine work, with more power through the middle and better over-rev on top.
On top of that, the motor started easier and stalled less often. When we went off-road riding with that setting still in effect, it was apparent that it was a little bit too much for tight trails.First made in to was the trxr in 06 they created the first electric start and since then they have produced them like this.
Its only other competitor at the time of its introduction was the Yamaha YFZ In andthe only interchangeable part between the ATV and motorcycle engines was the camshaft. This included a more aggressive cam profile, a larger bore with a shortened stroke, a new, short skirt piston and titanium rather than steel valves.
The first generation engine had a Because for many years the four-stroke class displacement limit was cubic centimeters, many racing sanctions bumped this number up to allow the new cc bikes and ATVs to compete. Along with the introduction of the TRX R, Honda announced, after 17 years, it would once again support factory sponsored racing.
The R would be the first factory sponsored bike out of any of the other atv manufacturers. Honda's first sponsored rider on the new r would be Tim Farr. The r's first national race would be the Baja The R was off to a good start even before its public launch. The R was first across the line in the ATV class with a total time of 22 hours, 27 minutes, and 24 seconds. In the National MX races, the R would place 3rd overall. Desert racing, and track racing would not be the only events the R would race in.
Independent double-wishbone with Showa shocks, featuring adjustable spring preload, rebound and compression damping. Pro-Link with single Showa shock featuring adjustable spring preload, rebound and compression damping.